slipperyskip

Project Worklogs => Completed Projects => Topic started by: slipperyskip on August 08, 2014, 01:07:09 PM

Title: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on August 08, 2014, 01:07:09 PM
Project goal is to design and build a powerful as possible gaming rig into a small as possible enclosure.

Note: I place captions below photos.

Click here for final photos (http://slipperyskip.com/page41.html)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/013.jpg)
Start by building a temporary structure to help mock up equipment locations.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/014.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/015.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/016.jpg)
This will be my first use of water cooling even though it is just an AIO unit.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/356.jpg)
The key to this build is this Mini-ITX sized GTX 970 from Gigabyte.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/357.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/358.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/026.jpg)
Gigabyte has been a sponsor of mine since 2006. This is the WiFi version of their Z97 Mini-ITX gaming board. I chose this over their GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 board because I didn't need the onboard Killer NIC and liked the idea of having dual HDMI instead of just one.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/032.jpg)
Gigabyte was also gracious enough to provide me with one of Hi Cookie's i7-4770K Intel Engineering Sample CPUs.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/033.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/027.jpg)
Silverstone has been a sponsor of mine for over ten years. 



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/028.jpg)
For this project I'm using the modular cable version of their 450W SFX PSU.
 


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/029.jpg)
Here it is sitting next to their hard wired version. Modular cables are awesome but for this design so are the fan and power cable connector locations.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/030.jpg)
Kingston HyperX is a new sponsor. They provided me with this 480GB SSD which will be the system's only drive.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/031.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/034.jpg)
They also sent me this 8GB Fury kit rated at 1866MHz.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/037.jpg)



Thanks for looking.

Title: Re: New Project - Fall 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on August 28, 2014, 11:52:49 AM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/052.jpg)
Chopped up a bunch of 1/2" thick basswood sticks and glued them up into the matrix. Backing board is 1/16" aircraft grade birch plywood.

Once after mentioning some Imperial measurements a friend in Europe sent me a link to a world map with the US highlighted. It was suppose to be nations in the world not on the metric system. I told him I thought is was nations who have walked on the moon.   :)


 
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/053.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/054.jpg)
Carved out the openings with a razer knife and sandpaper.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/055.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/041.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/042.jpg)
Glued up some offset spacers for the I/O plate mounting.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/043.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/044.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/045.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/047.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/048.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/049.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/050.jpg)
The thickness of the cases back plate is determined by the mounting tangs of the video card. I also need the thickness to provide extra support because this sucka is heavy.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/051.jpg)
The project height will be determined by the 8-pin PCIE power connector on the video card. I have a low-profile version in the works. Until then the height of the back plate will remain "crazy tall".

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/046.jpg)
Assembled the components and tested by installing Windows 8.1. Microsoft has been a supporter of mine for the last four years by providing the OS for all projects. Photo can also be captioned "Ten pounds of sh*t to go into a five pound bag".

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on August 30, 2014, 07:18:06 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/056.jpg)
Low-profile graphics card power connector will help keep down the overall height of the enclosure. I calculate about 10mm savings which translates to approximately .6 liters in my design.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/057.jpg)
This is the cleat that will eventually hold the radiator mounting plate to the case. It needs to be removable so I'm using threaded wood inserts. First drill out pilot holes.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/058.jpg)
An Allen wrench is used to set the insert into place.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/059.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/060.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/061.jpg)
This is the radiator mounting plate with holes located for the four radiator mounts and two slots cut for the hoses. Opening for air flow is on the to-do list. This is 6-ply 1/8 inch aircraft grade birch plywood.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/062.jpg)
Mounting the cleat using 8-32 screws.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/063.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/064.jpg)
There will be an identical cleat mounted to the other end of the radiator plate. The cleats will be attached to the interior of the case so as to span the distance front to back.


Thanks for looking.

Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on September 03, 2014, 02:39:37 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/066.jpg)
Cut out the radiator opening and trimmed the plate length to size.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/067.jpg)
I had to add some material for the video card mount in order to allow adequate depth for the wood insert. I also had to widen the face on one side in order to center the radiator fan (and opening).

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/068.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/069.jpg)
Wood insert and screw for the video card mount. I'll install another one next to it after adding more material to the area. I always use both screws in a two slot video card although some say that is overkill.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/070.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/071.jpg)
The front plate is identical to the back plate dimension-wise. Same 1/16" birch plywood with 1/2" reinforcements.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/072.jpg)
Here the two are back to back.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/073.jpg)
Here they are stacked.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/074.jpg)
Both face plates have the same 1/8" ledge to help align and fit them to the bottom plate.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/075.jpg)
Something like this. The height will be trimmed down significantly as soon as I get comfortable with what it should be. Sits nicely until the wind blows.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/076.jpg)
The radiator plate tossed on top. It will bridge the front and back plates eventually. I'm experimenting with 15mm thick radiator fans instead of the stock 25mm fans and that could greatly alter the radiator plate position.

Important to note here that all of this is an internal structure that won't be seen when finished. There is a completely separate candy-coated outer shell that will slide down over the top of this inner structure.

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on September 08, 2014, 12:39:35 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/077.jpg)
Attached the cleat to the front panel.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/078.jpg)
Showing the embedded screw inserts.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/079.jpg)
Attached the cleat to the back panel.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/080.jpg)
Radiator mounting panel with attachment hardware ready to go.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/081.jpg)
Most of the scribbling is just random thoughts from some previous project. I tend to write on wood instead of paper.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/082.jpg)
Front and back panels bridged by the radiator mount.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/083.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/084.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/085.jpg)
Added in the bottom panel. This will be glued together eventually but I still have significant work to do on the individual panels so this is just a photo op.


 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/086.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/087.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/088.jpg)
Framed in the PSU so it can only move one way...upward.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/089.jpg)
Bought this mesh desk set at OfficeMax for cheap.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/090.jpg)
Loads of high quality mesh that will take me years to use. Some brands are better than others. I like this variety because it is a tighter mesh.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/091.jpg)
Finally after all these years I sprung for a crimper. This project hinges on reducing the mass of cables.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/092.jpg)
Over the years I have amassed a virtual mountain of spare modular cables of all varieties. I feel comfortable that I can experiment and screw up on a grand scale without too much consequence.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/093.jpg)
First up is the 12V EPS 4+4 cable. My board doesn't need the +4 so half of the cables disappear before it gets shortened. Before and after photo.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/094.jpg)
Next up is the PCIE cable. Instead of the 6+2 connector nonsense I'm going with exactly what I need...8-pin. Before and after. Note: I'm not concerned with fancy sleeving or anything right now. I'm only concerned with proper length and whether it actually works or not. I assumed up front that I'll be making each cable twice before all the dust clears.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/095.jpg)
SATA cable was a piece of cake because I have done them before. Before and after photo.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/096.jpg)
I haven't tackled the 24-pin ATX cable yet because of a mystery. The cable included in the new power supply has an electronic component heat-shrinked into the cable bundle. I did a little research but came up with nothing.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/097.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/098.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/099.jpg)
My best guess is it has something to do with backfitting PSUs with "Haswell compatibility" by using a special cable set. Does anyone know anything about this?

Thanks for looking.




Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on September 10, 2014, 05:28:26 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/100.jpg)
Mocked up with the help of some heavy-duty rubber bands. The upper corner pieces are temporary to keep the box square. They will be fitted permanently later.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/101.jpg)


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/102.jpg)
A Delta AFB-series fan...for when you get tired of playing with toy fans.




(http://slipperyskip.com/17/103.jpg)
Coke can in classic reclining pose.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/104.jpg)
Circle drawn on the front will be the location of a 120mm exhaust fan.


Note again: This is all internal structure.
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on September 11, 2014, 04:03:55 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/105.jpg)
For cutting a large 135mm hole I mark it off with my precision optical measuring guide.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/106.jpg)
Next I mount the piece in the chuck on my floor mounted drill press and select my 135mm hole saw.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/107.jpg)
Took a long time to drill the hole. Seemed like five hours. Must be a dull saw blade.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/108.jpg)
Not as clean a cut as my CNC router but it is currently down for calibration.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/109.jpg)
Cleaned up the edges with my oscillating spindle sander.
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on September 13, 2014, 01:06:48 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/110.jpg)
Beginnings of the decorative cover. This is the start to the fascia. It's in the front and it's in your face. Fascia.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/111.jpg)
135mm hole.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/112.jpg)
Hand carved with a razer knife. About 13 hours.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/113.jpg)
SSD mount.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/114.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/115.jpg)
Carved out some indents to relieve some interference with the PSU modular cable latches. Probably one of the most useless things in a computer. Whose modular cables have fallen out of the PSU because there wasn't a little piece of plastic locking them in? OK maybe Elon Musk has to worry about one surviving a space launch but...seriously?



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/116.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/117.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/118.jpg)
Cut a 120mm fan hole in the center of the front interior panel. Glued up a fan support system.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/119.jpg)
Also cut out center section of radiator panel mounting cleat. I had left out the glue in this middle part when the cleat was originally attached.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/120.jpg)
Scythe SY1212SL12M (1600RPM) Slip Stream Slim 120x12mm Fan


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/121.jpg)
Probably mounted backwards. I dunno. Don't care right now. This the better looking side. There are no flow markers so they are making me think.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/122.jpg)
Cut a fan clearance/support section out of the radiator plate.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/123.jpg)
Also cut out a small notch to allow the PCI-E cable to disappear down below the plate.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/124.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/125.jpg)
Fan isn't mounted in the traditional manner. I would call it "restrained in place". I was concerned about stresses on the incredibly thin frame caused by mounting screws. I also don't want fasteners coming through the front panel because of the nature of the decorative cover mounting system.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/126.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/127.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/128.jpg)
Again. Facing the wrong way...I think.

Thanks for looking!



Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on September 30, 2014, 04:46:04 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/129.jpg)
Been cutting up timber and punching out holes for my decorative cover.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/130.jpg)
This is wood angle. It is CNC cut from solid wood.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/138.jpg)
The angle is fit to each corner and acts as the foundation for the cover. All the exterior bits will be attached to these pieces. They are the only contact points with the interior box when the cover slides off and on.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/131.jpg)
The cover's front face includes an 135mm hole. This is the outlet for the 120mm Scythe fan.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/132.jpg)
This is the cover's back panel. It is cut to size but is being left blank for now because I haven't decided to do a full coverage panel or a cut-down "bikini" back panel. Either way, it starts with a full-sized wood panel.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/133.jpg)
The video card side panel with its 92mm vent hole



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/134.jpg)
The PSU side panel also with a 92mm vent hole.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/135.jpg)
The top panel has an 135mm hole yet to be cut.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/136.jpg)
This is 11/16" quarter round made of pine. My design calls for rounded shoulders on the left and right edges. I'm going to incorporate these two pieces into the cover construction to get those curves.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/139.jpg)
Probably the most complex part of this project will be integrating this quarter round into the edge. Here it is placed nearby its future home. This means I'll be veneering on a curve later in the project. Always fun!



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/137.jpg)
Progress so far all tossed together for a photo op.

Thanks for looking!


Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 02, 2014, 11:03:03 AM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/140.jpg)
A 4 inch square piece of wood is cut along with 4 small framing timbers.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/141.jpg)
A 4 inch square piece of mesh is also cut.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/142.jpg)
This will be my mesh screen mounting system for the left and right (video card and PSU) side panel vent holes.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/143.jpg)
Glue the four small timbers around the edge of the wooden block to form a frame. Glue the block over the vent hole and cut out the hole.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/144.jpg)
Flipped over.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/145.jpg)
This process makes the panel look as if it is twice as thick giving the overall piece a beefier stronger look. I have used this optical illusion several time in the past.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/146.jpg)
With the mesh screen in place.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/149.jpg)
Final mesh screen installation will happen very late in the build. I'll do this by gluing in 4 small framing timbers around the inside edge effectively locking in the screen.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/147.jpg)
Result.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/148.jpg)
Rinse and repeat for other side.


Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 04, 2014, 12:01:48 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/150.jpg)
Cut some 1/4" square timber to same length as 11/16" quarter round.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/151.jpg)
Glued pieces together to create ledges for 1/8" panels to rest.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/152.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/153.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/154.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/155.jpg)
Top panel resting on its curved shoulders. The panel's radiator inlet vent hole is yet to come.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/156.jpg)
Built up a mesh support system on the back of the front panel and cut out appropriate sized piece of mesh. My "system" consists of 14 pieces of wood and includes spacers to elevate the panel away from the box enough to provide its own clearance.





(http://slipperyskip.com/17/157.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/158.jpg)
The construction creates various slots and channels to support and guide the mesh panel.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/159.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/160.jpg)
The mesh panel will remain easily removable during construction to allow for finishing/sanding/painting. In the end the slot will be covered by a decorative element making the mesh panel permanent.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/161.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/162.jpg)

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 06, 2014, 03:03:51 AM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/163.jpg)
Cut a significant chunk out of each corner of the internal box to provide clearance for the external covers rounded shoulders.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/164.jpg)
I knew this step was coming which is why I had previously built up a lot of material at each corner.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/165.jpg)
Attached the quarter round assemblies to the edges of the top panel. Modified them to provide clearance for the side panels mesh screen mounts.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/166.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/167.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/168.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/169.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/170.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/171.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/172.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/173.jpg)
Fitted but not yet permanently attached to the side panels.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/174.jpg)

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 07, 2014, 10:48:43 AM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/175.jpg)
Glued the top panel to the side panels

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/176.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/177.jpg)
Decided to go with the cut-down bikini back panel. Not as strong as a full coverage piece but I think it will look better. Hence....bikini. :)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/178.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/179.jpg)
Glued into place. All of these gluing steps are done with the cover in place. The trick is to not accidentally glue two surfaces together that shouldn't be stuck together.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/180.jpg)
Positioning the front panel.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/181.jpg)
A step I like to refer to as "Bringing the Pain".



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/182.jpg)
All the edges trimmed and cleaned up.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/183.jpg)

 Video time! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGVazd8nN3c)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/184.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/185.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/186.jpg)

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 09, 2014, 12:17:51 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/187.jpg)
Cut some spacers to elevate the radiator plate.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/188.jpg)
I created three different thicknesses. These are combined in various ways to get the correct radiator height.

I'm attempting to correct a design error I made concerning the thickness of the stock watercooling fan. My original design created so much stress on the motherboard the I/O plate would pop out. The tightly coiled up radiator hoses were causing a downward pressure on the board causing it to bend. I struggled with shims to raise the plate enough to relieve the stress without the fan hitting the top of the case.

Didn't work. I have had to abandon the stock 20mm thick stock fan and replace it with a 15mm unit. With the extra space created by the thinner fan I was able to shim the rad plate up even higher. Everything fits nicely now and the board bending problem is resolved. Fan performance is the big question now.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/196.jpg)


 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/189.jpg)
Cut out the radiator inlet vent.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/190.jpg)
Radiator peek-a-boo.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/191.jpg)
Built the mounting system for the top vent mesh. A simple frame will do here.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/192.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/193.jpg)
This is the 15mm rad fan I'll be starting out with. It is made by ID Cooling who I believe is an OEM supplier for other companies including Cooler Master. Took three weeks to get this shipped from China.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/194.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/195.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/197.jpg)
Mocking up some decorative elements to check the look.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/198.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/199.jpg)
The lower hole was cut slightly small so that minor adjustments can be made after permanently attaching the decorative hole. To me this is easier than trying to align everything perfectly to a fixed hole. Don't worry if you don't understand. I barely do. :)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/200.jpg)
Photo number 200.

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 12, 2014, 01:39:55 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/201.jpg)
Drove 240 miles yesterday (round trip) to the nearest Woodcraft store. Narrowed down my veneer choices to these two candidates. On the left is Myrtle Burl and to the right is Mahogany Crotch. Yes....Crotch.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/202.jpg)
The Myrtle Burl is flawless and seems to be easy to work with. The Mahogany Crotch was slightly damaged so I negotiated a 25% discount. It is like a thin sheet of glass shattering at any provocation. How well each negotiates the projects rounded shoulders will be a major decision maker.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/203.jpg)
I've never used a veneer conditioner before so I was willing to try it. Maybe it will help my Crotch and assist both species to get around that tight bend.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/204.jpg)
Laid down a sheet of wax paper to protect the project surface from the conditioner soaked veneer. Made the appropriate bend and clamped it down with scrap plywood. A sheet of paper towel is sandwiched in to help with the drying.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/205.jpg)
Not a dramatic 90 degree curve but it will definitely work. I am currently doing the same with a piece of the Crotch allowing it to dry much longer. It didn't bend as easy when setting up so the extra time might help.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/206.jpg)
Meanwhile, I installed all the equipment including all my new shortened cables. No magic smoke escaped so that's a good thing. Had some issues with fan blade interference that a couple of cable ties took care of. Stressed the system with some benchmarking and it didn't burst into flames.

So I really want to use the Myrtle Burl because it is unique and easy to work with. However, my renders have all been showing a reddish wood and that is what my eye is used to. I'm afraid the Mahogany Crotch will finish too deep a red.  I also like the Crotch because I get to say Crotch. :) Any opinions?

Thanks for looking!

Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 12, 2014, 03:30:15 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/207.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/208.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/209.jpg)
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 15, 2014, 11:53:21 AM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/125.jpg)
First up is a discovered mystery that hasn't yet been solved. I was getting some serious fan noise at idle that I wasn't too happy with. Tracked it down to the Scythe which was surprising because I chose the Medium Speed model because of comments about excessive noise from the High Speed model. It turns out the problem is with the perpendicular radiator plate. I slid the running fan up for removal and once it cleared the plate the noise disappeared. Very odd. I'm going to sand the sharp plate edges down to make it more aerodynamic. Hopefully that will fix it.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/210.jpg)
Invested in more clamps. Ask any woodworker...you can't have too many clamps.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/211.jpg)
I have a pre-gluing ritual where I simulate the clamping scheme. First step is to assemble the proper sized clamping supports.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/212.jpg)
I never clamp the actual surfaces directly but instead use a support. In this case I'm using an additional support on the opposite side because of holes and some delicate mesh framing.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/213.jpg)
This simulation helps me figure out if I can bring the pain in an evenly manner. This gluing operation will be very difficult because of the curve. Professionals use a vacuum pump system to veneer curves.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/214.jpg)
First step in this veneering job is the inside edge of the vent holes. I discovered that my Tupperware tumbler fits perfectly in the vent hole.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/215.jpg)
Cut strips of veneer and soaked them in water. Wrapped them around the tumbler and secured them with rubber bands. Let them dry for a couple of days. Later, the same tumbler will be used to "clamp" the strips into place. I prepared both mahogany and myrtle strips because that hasn't been decided yet.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/216.jpg)
Prepared some samples to do some testing. These have a single coat of lacquer applied.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/217.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/218.jpg)
I'll be doing some masking tape testing. I built and attached a simulated decorative element that will be spray painted. I'm testing two different masking tapes to see if they work well with solvent-based paint and if the adhesive damages the lacquer finish.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/219.jpg)
Burl pr0n for burl fans.

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 16, 2014, 03:38:12 PM
If you are allergic to extreme minutia then please skip this update. People have been bugging me for years to do a veneering tutorial. I have resisted because...well...you are about to find out. I was trained to veneer by professional cabinet makers but the process I have developed over the past 12 years doesn't resemble the professional method.

The difference is driven by the fact that I place no restrictions on my time.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/220.jpg)
Preparing. Got my coffee (black) and my Jawbone Jambox (Project Orchestra) tuned to the Pandora Steely Dan channel.

I cried when I wrote this song,
Sue me if I play too long.




(http://slipperyskip.com/17/221.jpg)
Sprung the mahogany strips from the Tupperware tumbler. Yes, I'm going with the Mahogany Crotch. I give it a 60% success rate because of the brittle, damage prone veneer and the fact I don't have enough of it to survive an error. Back up plan is to layer the burl on top of it.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/222.jpg)
Great photo of the top of Orchestra. Doh! Auto-focus through a hole. Shows the overlap to be trimmed.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/223.jpg)
Mark the overlap with my 90-year-old mechanical pencil and cut the excess off with my EZ-Cutter. Still left too much...on purpose.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/225.jpg)
Use a 100-grit professional nail file designed to work on fake acrylic nails. Fit the veneer, file some off, fit, file, fit, file until I get the perfect fit.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/224.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/226.jpg)
Glue of choice. Common water-based carpenters glue. I like my glue to be fresh.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/227.jpg)
Wet paper towel for cleanup. I apply the glue with my fingers. It is very important to not get any glue on the veneer outer surface because it will show up later when a finish is applied.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/228.jpg)
Very bad photos of glue.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/229.jpg)
One of the major problems with veneering is glue bleed through. That is why I never apply glue to the veneer surface.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/230.jpg)
Tupperware tumbler "clamping" the veneer into place.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/231.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/232.jpg)
View from the underside.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/233.jpg)
I get about 15 minutes before the glue sets up. I have developed a process I call clenching. I remove the clamping pressure every few minutes and place it again from a different position. Here I have inserted the tumbler from the underside. By applying pressure from different directions the glue gets "worked in" from the clenching action.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/234.jpg)
During the clenching operation before the glue sets up I take time to sand the gap. This is to generate saw dust and force it into the gap. This helps hide the seam.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/235.jpg)
Let dry for three hours. The excess veneer is still very fragile and will need to be gently trimmed down to about 1mm. I do this by carving with my razer knife.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/236.jpg)
It is important to know the direction of the woodgrain. The grain will either guide the knife blade towards the hole or away from it. Carve in the direction that guides the blade away from the hole otherwise there is a real risk of tearing out a large section right across the wrong surface. Also, the grain can change directions along its length so the carving needs to be adjusted for that.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/237.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/238.jpg)
Down at 1mm the veneer is sturdy enough to accept sanding along its edge but not across it. The underside is sanded down flush to the mesh support.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/239.jpg)
This is what I'm trying to avoid here.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/240.jpg)
The topside edge will have another piece of veneer glued perpendicular across the top of it. For these edges I do what I call a Tupperware lip. That's another one of those things I have developed over the years. I take a regular nail file and sand the edge down until it leaves a very small "bump" as felt by fingertip.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/241.jpg)
This is done instead of sanding flush to the surface. The lip forces the overlaying veneer to have positive contact along the entire edge. This creates a much tighter seal along the seam so it can keep moisture out. That's how veneer fails. Another advantage of the Tupperware lip is that during gluing a finger can be run across the edge scraping glue off and pooling it up right where I want it to be pooled.

And that's it.
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 18, 2014, 05:12:35 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/242.jpg)
Masking tape testing. On the left is Frog Tape and on the right is 3M 233. After getting the Frog Tape home I read the fine print that its for latex paint only and not to apply it to lacquer. The 3M 233 tape is the same as the 401 tape. Not sure why they have two numbers.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/243.jpg)
After a single coat.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/244.jpg)
5 coats later. The edges of the Frog Tape are peeling up.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/245.jpg)
The 3M 233 tape came up nicely with no residue. The Frog Tape left a small amount of adhesive behind but it came off easily by just rubbing it with a finger.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/246.jpg)
Neither tape left what I would consider a clean line. I figured out that it was because of the angle and the paint that was pooling up in the deep corner. I'm going to have to figure out how to fix this problem. Suggestions? On past projects I have been able to finish these items separately and mate them together at the end. Not this time.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/247.jpg)
Front panel clamping scheme. Pain. Brought.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/248.jpg)
Rear panel. I have to kinda laugh at people building cases out of 1/2" or 3/4" lumber. Are they building a computer enclosure or a step ladder for their fat aunt Gladys? I shouldn't make fun because that's how I also started.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/249.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/250.jpg)
The spliced section down below is some scrap mahogany being used as a spacer. A decorative element will cover that entire area.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/251.jpg)
Sanded with 80-grit so the surface is still very raw. I'll edge up gradually to 200-grit before hitting it with lacquer sanding sealer. Then the fun really starts.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/252.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/253.jpg)
OK so now I'm just showing off. :) This is the lip on the inside edge of the back panel.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/254.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/255.jpg)

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 20, 2014, 12:57:17 PM
This post is brought to you by Pink Floyd

Well you wore out your welcome with random precision, rode on the steel breeze.
Come on you raver, you seer of visions, come on you painter, you piper, you prisoner, and shine!


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/257.jpg)
So I have been rethinking my method to finish the wood and aluminum parts. In the past I have finished them separately and later merged them together. The clean line tape test was a failure but I'm thinking that was my fault for not taking the time to do it right. Still...makes me nervous because failure here would be a nasty one.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/256.jpg)
What I have come up with is a hybrid approach. It's too complicated to explain which means I barely have a clue. Works perfectly in my head of course.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/258.jpg)
The continuation of the DE over the back edge has always been one of my pet peeves. I hate it when a radio's decoration just stops at the back edge like it was sliced off. I prefer the optical illusion of a continuation around to the back.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/263.jpg)
Here I have glued together three major parts of the DE. I did this "on frame" so it would be a perfect fit. The trick was to not glue it permanently into place prematurely.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/264.jpg)
This now allows me finish and paint the edges that border the wood surface. I can't completely finish the DE off chassis for reasons not yet apparent.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/265.jpg)
The big problem here is the extremely fragile and delicate structure of this piece. I also have to be wary of any added layers to either mating surface causing them difficulty in being reunited later.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/260.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/261.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/262.jpg)
I left the lower "layer" of the hole small and unfinished so it could be properly trimmed back and finshed with wood filler and paint. This hopefully will make it appear like a "solid" hole and not one just made up from layers.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/266.jpg)
Rough cut the bumpers.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/268.jpg)
To get the proper curve I used this paint can wrapped in 100-grit sandpaper. It was pure luck in finding the perfect sized can.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/269.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/267.jpg)

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 23, 2014, 03:14:47 PM
This post brought to you by Brazilian Jazz. Bossa Nova!

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/270.jpg)
Hit it with a couple of coats of brushing lacquer but I don't like the brush. I'm currently shopping for something more appropriate for this project.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/271.jpg)
It's all about the width and how much lacquer the bristles can carry. The brush stroke has to be one long continuous motion with an even application start to finish.




(http://slipperyskip.com/17/272.jpg)
I made the mistake of editing my render to show black decorative elements instead of my standard aluminum. I thought it looked interesting and my people now prefer it. My wife says I'm not fooling anyone with the fake aluminum anymore. Maybe it's time to try fake plastic. Here I'm trying out different paints on different woods with some tape thrown in for S&G.

Life just got more complicated.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/273.jpg)
Glued up pieces of the bumpers. Talk about delicate. Sheesh.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/275.jpg)
Fitting the bumper

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/276.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/277.jpg)


Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 25, 2014, 12:51:13 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/288.jpg)
I use samples made up at Home Depot for this kind of painting. The interior structure will be painted this French Silver to help simulate the look of a painted steel chassis instead of chunks of lumber.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/289.jpg)
Taped off the edges where the outer shell makes contact. I've learned to not paint sliding surfaces because they usually don't slide very well after a layer of flat latex is applied. If the fit becomes sloppy from use I'll just hit these areas with paint and it tightens right up.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/287.jpg)
Bumper work.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/290.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/291.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/293.jpg)
Just to prove that these elements are still removable at this moment. Much easier to finish the detail work and paint when they are "off chassis".



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/294.jpg)
Bumpers are finished and ready for paint.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/295.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/297.jpg)
The waterfall grille has already been started. The grille will consist of nine vertical "slats" two of which are already placed in these photos. You can see them on the outer edges. The remaining seven will be equally spaced to span the top and front vent holes.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/298.jpg)

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on October 26, 2014, 05:10:33 PM
I think it is time to spill a few beans. Inspiration for this project is a 1940's Canadian radio made by Addison. The Model 2 is one of the most valuable and sought after collector radios in the world. It's main decorative feature is the waterfall grille which gives the radio its nickname...The Addison Waterfall. Two examples....

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/284.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/285.jpg)



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/299.jpg)
Painting the interior a color called Lava Gray. First coat. I'm avoiding surfaces that mate to the interior box because they have to slide against each other Also avoiding the mesh screen areas because they have a gluing event in their future.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/300.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/301.jpg)
Actually this is just an excuse to interview a possible color for my external bits. I love Lava Gray because in my opinion it pairs perfectly with mahogany.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/302.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/303.jpg)
Interior box painting continues. Areas taped off include future gluing surfaces.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/304.jpg)
Splotch is a shadow. Possibly a carpenter bee trying to supervise.


So the big question is color choice. Short list is Aluminum, Gloss Black, Flat Black, Lava Gray, Butterscotch and Lime Green. Yes....Lime Green. My good friend and insider Alfred Poor who has seen the final renders e-mailed me last night "Wow. I think you could paint it lime green and it would still look awesome." :D

Any opinions?
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on November 03, 2014, 03:26:37 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/306.jpg)
Glued a scrap piece of 1/2" square wood to the back of the bumpers near the balance point.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/307.jpg)
This temporary painting handle will be snapped off and cleaned up later.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/308.jpg)
Taped up the back of the bumpers to keep the wood raw for gluing. I like to trim a 1mm space back from the edge to get a cleaner paint edge and so the tape won't interfere with sanding along the edge.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/309.jpg)
Wrap a plastic grocery bag around my hand and grasp the handle. This gives me the control I like to have for spraying.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/310.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/311.jpg)
90% finished with the trim paint...or...just got my aluminum pieces in from the CNC mill guys.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/312.jpg)
Semi-final installation of equipment. The wood panels still haven't been glued together. Access is so much easier with the separate panels. The video card will be swapped out next week and I'd like the room to work that.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/313.jpg)
Power button in the back where I like it.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/314.jpg)
Had to do some shimming to the SSD mount. Also took the opportunity to extend the mount for greater support. The additional piece is unpainted in this photo.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/315.jpg)
The corners are raw wood and will remain that way. I even put a coat of paste wax on them and their corresponding outer box surfaces.


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/316.jpg)
As far as the butterscotch goes (or any other color) I gave up on that after doing some testing. I bought some paint that was perfect according to the cap color but it came out a terrible school bus yellow. Took it as a sign, gave myself credit for trying and moved on to the original plan. CNC milled aluminum bumpers and grille. As per design spec. :)

Thanks for looking.

Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on November 04, 2014, 04:02:30 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/317.jpg)
Four blocks of wood located at each corner of the inner box structure.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/318.jpg)
Corresponding four "frames" at each corner of the decorative box interior.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/319.jpg)
To secure the cover in place the blocks tightly mesh with their custom frames. The meshed parts are also painted so a solid friction fit is achieved and easily maintained



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/320.jpg)
The base of the grille is nearing completion after many, many coats of paint. The paint dries completely in 15 minutes and I do my best to sand it all back off between coats. The last 5 coats I allow to build up with a light sanding between with 1500 grit sandpaper. 85% of what you see here is masked off sections. Only the outer edges that border the mahogany are being worked.

The idea is that after this piece is glued in place and the surrounding mahogany is masked off I won't have to spray paint directly into the "border" region. By pre-finishing these border edges it should help solve my masking tape paint line problem.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/321.jpg)
After sanding the finish back to raw wood three times and starting over I'm thinking the fourth might do it. 3 coats of semi-gloss brushing lacquer lightly sanded with 400 grit sandpaper and buffed with #0000 steel wool. This is a dark photo but I like the reflections.

Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on November 06, 2014, 11:30:01 AM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/322.jpg)
Sanded off the finish on the gluing surfaces.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/323.jpg)
Clamp scheme.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/324.jpg)
This was the edge I was looking for. Hoprfully I can keep it this way. These photos were taken before gluing so there is a tiny gap.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/325.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/326.jpg)
More tape testing. Everything I read said to not leave the tape on a lacquer surface for more than 24 hours.  I'll probably need more time than that. I suspect the 24 hour thing is BS and this will prove it.

 

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/327.jpg)
New thing I learned from a guitar finishing site. Keep your masking tape in plastic bags and be careful where you set the rolls down. Helps keep lint, sawdust and funky liquids off the tape edges. Love to learn new things.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/328.jpg)
Once it is finally glued down I pack the now mated holes with wood filler. There are three layers of wood that need to look like a single layer.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/329.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/330.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/331.jpg)
Sand the wood filler down to get a smooth surface.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/332.jpg)
The only photo in this sequence shot in direct sunlight. Makes a difference. Here I am laying down my first grille slat straight down the center.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/333.jpg)
Instead of measuring I like to use physical spacers to get my positioning correct. Four identical pieces of wood take the probability of error down to near zero.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/334.jpg)
After this I took the piece indoors and finished the grille work.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/335.jpg)
Cloudy, overcast day so I'm back to monkeying with the fill light. The remaining grille structure is complete.





(http://slipperyskip.com/17/336.jpg)
The 1/16" x 1/4" slats are backed up by 1/4" x 1/4" pieces of basswood to get the depth I need.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/337.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/338.jpg)
All of these pieces are hand cut and sanded to fit.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/339.jpg)




Thanks for looking!
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on November 07, 2014, 06:01:55 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/342.jpg)
Taped off using a nice old thick paper grocery bag I had stashed away. After a single coat.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/343.jpg)
Fifteen coats and a day later. Sanded down 100 grit, spray, 220 grit, spray and 400 grit, spray.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/344.jpg)
Painted the back of the slats with a brush-on aluminum paint and then backed up the holes with pieces of cardboard.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/345.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/346.jpg)


Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on November 12, 2014, 11:31:27 AM

Waiting for new, upgraded equipment and a few knobs to select from. Been concentrating on the photo shoot setup and lighting.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/349.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/350.jpg)
Photo number 350



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/351.jpg)
4-way! In case anyone thought I was kidding.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/352.JPG)
Solar light tent setup. PVC pipe, ripped bedsheet, clothes pins and a table cloth stolen from a Las Vegas nightclub.

Knobs arrive Friday, video card ships tomorrow and Far Cry 4 releases on Tuesday. Gonna be close. :)
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on November 19, 2014, 07:09:26 PM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/353.jpg)

Final photos coming soon. Probably late Friday. These are my knobs. They are made by a German company named Schaller who specializes in guitar parts. These knobs were originally intended for a Fender Stratocaster.

The left knob operates the left one and the right knob operates the right one. I recommend operating both at once for maximum effect.
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on November 21, 2014, 04:19:23 AM
(http://slipperyskip.com/17/356.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/357.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/358.jpg)

First off...Big thanks to Gigabyte VGA for providing this video card.  :) :) :)

The dream of the 970 just dropping in kinda went up in smoke. Wasn't too bad though. The MSI and Gigabyte cards share the same single 8-pin power plug but the Gigabyte's is turned the other way around. My custom low profile cable suddenly had to do yoga. Works fine and doesn't look too bad but I'll have to remake it.

Ran 3DMark Firestrike on it and got a 9349 which I guess is pretty good. Better than 97% according to the results. That was stock. I'll play with the OC stuff later. More importantly Far Cry 4 options are all maxed out including some acronyms I've never heard of.

Crazy thing is the 970 has a 25W lower TDP than the 760 I pulled out of there. Fan speed got up to 56% during benchmarking.

Now where can I find a hang glider?
Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on November 21, 2014, 01:55:00 PM


Addison is inspired by a Canadian radio design from the 1940s. It has a water-cooled Intel Core i7-4770K CPU running at 4.3GHz and a factory overclocked version of the Nvidia GTX970 video card.

A Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI mini-ITX motherboard mated to a Gigabyte GV-N970IXOC-4GD mini-ITX GTX970 video card. A single HyperX 480GB SSD is the only system drive. The 450W Silverstone SFX power supply is fully modular with custom length cables.

The enclosure is mahogany crotch with aluminum trim. It has a capacity of 10.6 liters.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/360.jpg)


(http://slipperyskip.com/17/361.jpg)




(http://slipperyskip.com/17/362.jpg)



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/363.jpg)
Left and right vent holes to service the power supply and graphics card.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/366.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/367.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/368.jpg)
Coca-cola can size comparison technology is flawed because of the trademark display. An alternative is the common DVD or CD.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/377.jpg)
Or for the more traditional.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/378.jpg)
The raw wood edges mate with similar raw wood surfaces in the decorative cover. Any kind of paint or finish on physical contact surfaces tends to not work as smoothly as these waxed raw wood surfaces.



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/379.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/284.jpg)
An original 1940 Addison Model 2 Radio



(http://slipperyskip.com/17/370.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/373.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/374.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/354.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/372.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/359.jpg)

Specs:
Intel Core i7-4770K CPU
Gigabyte Z97N-WiFi Mini-ITX Motherboard
Gigabyte GTX970 Video Card
HyperX Fury 8GB System Memory
HyperX 480GB SSD
Silverstone 450W Modular SFX Power Supply
All-In-One Generic 120mm water cooling system

Big thanks to my friends at....

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/376.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/371.jpg)

(http://slipperyskip.com/Silver2.jpg)

Title: Re: Project Addison - 2014
Post by: slipperyskip on December 08, 2014, 09:14:28 AM
Been playing the fool out of Far Cry 4 on Ultra settings. Temps are reasonable but I want to redo the TIM. I'm using 10 year old Arctic Silver that I'm pretty sure expired 5 years ago. It's quieter with the cover off because of air flow through the mesh but having the cover off doesn't affect the temps at all.

(http://slipperyskip.com/17/385.jpg)
Who said the cover was purely decorative? Can you imagine the damage done if that leaf had gotten through the grille? :D:D The "leaf" incident happened while I was setting up the video below. The leaf wasn't a setup, it just landed there.


http://youtu.be/He7-Eq5JlS4 (http://youtu.be/He7-Eq5JlS4)

Thanks to all who played along. It's been fun.  :)