A couple of pics of a before and after actually represents about 60 hours of my life. Since I'm sitting around waiting for the post I decided to do a mini-tutorial on how I veneer. This is not the fastest way to do it. It is probably not the absolutely correct way to do it. It is the way I do it and I have had success with this method in the past.
Some of the tools and materials I'll be using. I'll be applying mahogany veneer to two planes of the basswood plank. One short side and one long side. There is an interaction between the two sides that I want to illustrate.
I do the short side first. The reason for this has to do with the exposure of the seam. Since the long side will be seen by the public more than the short side I "hide" the seam on the short side. This will become clearer later.
I pick out a scrap piece of mahogany that has at least 1-2mm of overhang all around the edges. In this pic I have to cut one side with my hand mitre. It is important to leave enough material around the edges to help deal with "creeping" while clamping the piece. Don't leave too much overhang because it takes more effort to trim and it is just wasteful.
I use Elmer's Carpenter glue applied to each surface using my finger. I feel I have more control over the application doing it this way. DON'T use too much glue and DON'T get glue on the viewable surface because that will affect the finish.
I use mini-clamps and a scrap piece of wood to clamp the veneer down. I check the overhangs after clamping to see if the veneer creeped over. The glue allows me some time to make minor adjustments. Using a scrap piece of wood is important to properly distribute the clamping pressure across the piece.
Wait a minimum of three hours.
Sighting down the edge to illustrate my overhang.
My tool of choice for knocking down the overhang.....emory boards. For purposes of maintaining my manly manhood I call them "sandpaper on a stick". :hehe: My wife keeps me well supplied because she knows I'll raid her stash if she doesn't.
Using the long side as a guide I'm able to sand the overhang down flush with the adjacent surface. Some power tool might be able to do this quicker but it can't be this accurate or clean. Using the touch of my finger I can determine if it is "done".
Normally, all four short edges are done first before the long plane is done. I'm skipping these steps to keep this thing short.
Here is a photo showing me measuring and marking the length. Notice that I now have an overhang coming across the newly finished edge.
Since this is wider than my hand mitre can handle I have to make this cut "old school". First I score the line with a razor knife.
The razor knife would suffice for a "with grain" cut but since this is an across grain cut I'm going to use my Exacto hobby saw. I don't cut all the way through but just enough to snap off the piece. Dangerous but fun.
Creeping becomes a bigger problem with larger pieces using larger clamps. I've been known to apply the veneer in the wrong place in anticipation that the clamping creep will bring it to the correct position. These types of clamps don't bring their force perfectly perpendicular to the surface. They have a tendency to creep away from the handle. I need better clamps...and more of them. Can't have too many clamps an old carpenter once told me.
Wait three hours......
Here is the resulting overhang. Time to get busy with the emory boards....errr....sandpaper on a stick.
Results. The seam sits on the side away from view.
Final shot of finished edge. The edge is sharp and straight.
I cut a total of 49 pieces of veneer for this project and dressed up 82 seams.